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You have been standing in front of Las Meninas for four minutes and, for the first time on this trip, you are in no hurry at all. You know who every person in that room is, why Velázquez painted himself into it, and what they are all actually looking at. A couple stops beside you for ten […]

Marta booked four days in Madrid at the end of November and, a week before flying, the forecast put a rain icon on three of them. She reacted by buying the Paseo del Arte pass all at once and stacking the Prado, the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen into the same afternoon, so the “museum […]

It is Saturday, quarter past nine, and you are standing outside the hotel with two children: a six-year-old who has already asked twice where the Tooth Fairy Mouse lives, and a three-year-old in the stroller who has not yet decided whether he is going to cooperate today. You have a whole day in Madrid ahead […]

Ask what a tour guide costs in Madrid and you get answers ranging from “ten euros” to “seven hundred”, which sounds like nobody knows. They all do. They are simply quoting different things: a tip at the end of a free walking tour, a seat on a scheduled group tour, or a licensed guide working […]

There are two kinds of free in Madrid, and mixing them up is what ruins the day. There is what is always free — the Temple of Debod, the chapel with Goya’s frescoes, the Retiro, half a dozen city museums — and there is what is free only inside a two-hour window, which usually falls at […]

Search for “the most beautiful village near Madrid” and the first page of Google hands you lists of twelve, fifteen, twenty candidates, all carrying the same label. The name that wins the title most often is Patones de Arriba, the black slate village in the Sierra Norte. And that one does not appear on the […]