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It is eight in the morning and the hotel window is covered in raindrops. Down in the street, the café awnings are still rolled up and people walk fast, close to the buildings. At breakfast, the couple at the next table pull on two plastic ponchos and go over their plan out loud: Park Güell […]

Marta had spent forty minutes in the Sagrada Família queue on a Tuesday in October. Ahead of her, three groups with headsets. Behind her, a cruise ship that had just docked. When she finally got in, the nave was so crowded she couldn’t take a single photo without a head in it. On the way […]

In Barcelona, free happens at two moments of the week: Sunday from three in the afternoon, and the first Sunday of every month. Outside those, very few doors open without a ticket: the Picasso Museum on Thursday afternoons, the MNAC and the MACBA on Saturdays, and whatever is out in the street. Arrive between Monday […]

Laura had saved a list of “secret places in Barcelona” before her trip. The first one was the Bunkers del Carmel. She got there on a Saturday at sunset and found three hundred people holding up their phones, a speaker blasting music and the gate to the site locked. The next day, in the Raval, […]

Elena arrived in Barcelona with a list of twenty-three “must-sees” copied from a blog. By the third day she had been to almost all of them, had four hundred photos on her phone and a strange feeling: she wasn’t quite sure what she had seen. La Rambla, the Aquarium, the Arc de Triomf and Plaça […]