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I arrived in Rome with a list of twelve places and a map covered in pins scattered across the entire city. On the first day, before leaving the hotel, I connected the dots: the Vatican was marked right next to the Colosseum on my “day one must-sees” list, and between the two there were forty […]

I booked five nights in Rome and arrived in the city without having settled where I’d sleep the first one. I’d had two tabs open for weeks: an apartment with a balcony in Trastevere and a hotel two streets from the Pantheon, right in the Historic Center. Both had great reviews, both cost about the […]

Marta had booked her Vatican Museums entry for 11:00 AM two weeks in advance, kept an eye on the traffic forecast, and left the hotel with plenty of margin. What she hadn’t planned for was the taxi getting stuck for twenty minutes at a roadblock near Piazza del Risorgimento. She arrived at 11:24 with the […]

I booked my flights to Rome on August 3rd for a trip two weeks later, and the first thing I did was show the dates to a group of friends who had already been there. The response was almost unanimous: “you’re going to melt,” “everything’s closed in August,” “wait until September, don’t be reckless.” I […]