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It is twenty past two on Calle de la Bola and a group is standing in front of a red façade. They read the menu in the window, one of them goes in to ask and comes out shaking his head: full until four. You walk past them, give your name at the door and […]

It is twenty to ten on Calle Bailén and the line already bends around the corner of the Almudena Cathedral. There are people holding coffee, a family sharing a bottle of water, and a young man checking his phone to see whether tickets can be bought from where he is standing. You walk past them, […]

You have been standing in front of Las Meninas for four minutes and, for the first time on this trip, you are in no hurry at all. You know who every person in that room is, why Velázquez painted himself into it, and what they are all actually looking at. A couple stops beside you for ten […]

Marta booked four days in Madrid at the end of November and, a week before flying, the forecast put a rain icon on three of them. She reacted by buying the Paseo del Arte pass all at once and stacking the Prado, the Reina Sofía and the Thyssen into the same afternoon, so the “museum […]