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We spent forty minutes in front of the same façade. The app said it was important. The sign at the entrance said so too. But no one explained why there was an egg buried in the foundations of a castle built on the edge of the sea, or what that egg had to do with […]

The first time I stepped onto the streets of Spaccanapoli, someone warned me: “Watch your bag.” I did. But what I didn’t expect was a man in a flour-stained apron inviting me into his bakery — for free — just to show me how sfogliatella dough is folded. That’s Naples. Is it safe to walk […]

The area between the Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast concentrates some of Italy’s most recognisable landscapes: cliffs dropping into the Mediterranean, colourful houses stacked on hillsides, lemon-scented alleys and villages that have been drawing travellers for centuries. Choosing where to go makes the difference between a memorable trip and one ruined by the […]

We left the apartment at quarter past nine with the itinerary printed out, schedules loaded on the phone and the conviction — sincere, noble, completely wrong — that with kids you could still do everything. By half past nine, the little one had refused to walk on the cobblestones of Via dei Tribunali. “Heavy,” he […]

I arrived in Naples with the perfect itinerary memorised: Spaccanapoli in the morning, Castel Nuovo after lunch, the historic pizzeria at two, Posillipo at sunset. I’d even worked out which tram to take. The sky had other plans. At ten in the morning, in the middle of Via dei Tribunali, the sky opened a floodgate. […]

Naples has a relationship with street food that goes far beyond pizza. In every historic neighbourhood there is a rosticceria, a frittura or a bakery selling sandwiches made to recipes that have been part of the local tradition for decades, some for centuries. They are cheap, eaten standing up, and taste like few other things […]