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Marta had spent forty minutes in the Sagrada Família queue on a Tuesday in October. Ahead of her, three groups with headsets. Behind her, a cruise ship that had just docked. When she finally got in, the nave was so crowded she couldn’t take a single photo without a head in it. On the way […]

In Barcelona, free happens at two moments of the week: Sunday from three in the afternoon, and the first Sunday of every month. Outside those, very few doors open without a ticket: the Picasso Museum on Thursday afternoons, the MNAC and the MACBA on Saturdays, and whatever is out in the street. Arrive between Monday […]

Laura had saved a list of “secret places in Barcelona” before her trip. The first one was the Bunkers del Carmel. She got there on a Saturday at sunset and found three hundred people holding up their phones, a speaker blasting music and the gate to the site locked. The next day, in the Raval, […]

Elena arrived in Barcelona with a list of twenty-three “must-sees” copied from a blog. By the third day she had been to almost all of them, had four hundred photos on her phone and a strange feeling: she wasn’t quite sure what she had seen. La Rambla, the Aquarium, the Arc de Triomf and Plaça […]

Marta and Jorge stepped off their cruise ship at 8 AM with a list of twelve “must-see” sights and a ship that sailed at 6 PM. At 11 AM they were still standing outside the Sagrada Família without a ticket: there’s no box office, and the morning slots had sold out days earlier. Barcelona in […]