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Naples throws almost everyone off on a first visit. Not because it’s dangerous, not because it’s chaotic — though it is — but because it doesn’t work like any other Italian city. Visitors who arrive expecting a rougher version of Rome leave disappointed. Those who arrive ready to be surprised leave in love. These are […]

It was eleven in the morning on a Tuesday in July and the queue stretched into the street. Not to the corner. To the actual street — the one before the main entrance, the one that isn’t even part of the site yet. There were families with makeshift parasols, children who had already lost all […]

We spent forty minutes in front of the same façade. The app said it was important. The sign at the entrance said so too. But no one explained why there was an egg buried in the foundations of a castle built on the edge of the sea, or what that egg had to do with […]

The first time I stepped onto the streets of Spaccanapoli, someone warned me: “Watch your bag.” I did. But what I didn’t expect was a man in a flour-stained apron inviting me into his bakery — for free — just to show me how sfogliatella dough is folded. That’s Naples. Is it safe to walk […]

The area between the Gulf of Naples and the Amalfi Coast concentrates some of Italy’s most recognisable landscapes: cliffs dropping into the Mediterranean, colourful houses stacked on hillsides, lemon-scented alleys and villages that have been drawing travellers for centuries. Choosing where to go makes the difference between a memorable trip and one ruined by the […]

We left the apartment at quarter past nine with the itinerary printed out, schedules loaded on the phone and the conviction — sincere, noble, completely wrong — that with kids you could still do everything. By half past nine, the little one had refused to walk on the cobblestones of Via dei Tribunali. “Heavy,” he […]