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There is something nobody tells you about Florence in February. While the rest of the world waits for spring to visit, you could be standing in front of the Birth of Venus at the Uffizi Gallery with the room practically to yourself. No queues. No pushing. No tour guides shouting into earpieces. February is this […]

I arrived in Florence on a Tuesday in July. It was ten in the morning and the heat was already beating hard against the cobblestones of the Piazza della Repubblica. I had booked months in advance, had the itinerary on my phone, and still felt that vertigo of not knowing where to start: too many […]

I arrived in Florence on a Sunday afternoon with an overstuffed backpack and an underwritten list of museums. The train pulled into Santa Maria Novella, I opened the door, and the first thing I saw was an orange dome hanging above the rooftops as if someone had placed it there so I wouldn’t get lost. […]

I had booked the trip without saying a word. I just told her: “pack something comfortable and something elegant for one night.” When the taxi dropped us off in front of the Duomo as the afternoon faded and the last rays of sunlight set Brunelleschi’s dome ablaze in shades of orange and gold, she looked […]